Goodbye Tanzania & Zanzibar...

It has been a while since we have been near the computer but from our last update, we have had a well deserved rest bumming around the beach, partying with the locals and of course meeting more people!

Morning view from the Banda in Ushongo...

Leaving Moshi we got on a early morning bus to Tanga.  It was one of those 'local buses' where Lee's personal space was invaded by armpits and corn on the cobs for sale! I found it quite comfortable myself by the open window.  We got to Tanga after 7 hours where we caved in and got a taxi to our destination Drifters in Ushongo, Pangani.  It it low season in Tanzania so we arrived to an empty beach, empty bar and a choice of any of the bandas right on the beach to stay in.  It was lovely to finally relax.

One other couple where staying there too, Jon and Jocelyn from New Zealand, they gave us tips where the local shack was for 'cheaper' food and drink and we joined them on a gorgeous snorkelling trip to a random island in the middle of the ocean. (Thanks again)

The highlight of Ushongo was the baby 'giant' green turtles hatching who made their way to the sea.  We played a part in their conservation by making sure the crabs (which were everywhere) left them alone. Eventually 85 baby turtles managed to get the sea!

Realising we had no cash so we had to leave after a few days as there was no atm and cash is the only option in deserted places.  We were told that the ferry to Zanzibar has been stopped as 3 have sunk in the last month so the only option we had was to get a lift by the owner of the lodge. This ended up being the fishing boat that we went snorkelling in!  The engine broke down twice but finally after 4 hours we arrived in West Nungwi, on the north west coast of Zanzibar and it was lovely.  I found a reasonable priced bungalow just back from our beach and it even had hot water and breakfast was included.

West Nungwi Beach resorts...

Mick and Mack at Mack Inn...

Beautiful beaches amongst hundreds of honeymooners (no joke).  For that market it was understandable that it was pretty expensive even for a bottle of Killi so we headed into the local village where we stumbled upon Mick and Mack the Raster boys at 'Mack Inn' where we ended up having a few beers and playing all sorts of musical instruments to the songs of Bob Marley. (You had to be there!!!) 

We met a lovely couple Bev and Jim from Portsmouth (enjoy the rest of your honeymoon). We played pool one evening with Mr Mangi (The owner of the bar) his family and the local Masai tribe, again! We had some beautiful sunsets, good company and cheap beer when you can find it. Zanzibar was a perfect end to our Tanzanian adventures.

My favourite photo of Zanzibar...

Last stop Stone town to fly to our next stop Thailand. Stone town is a charming place with small alleyways and doors of all shapes and sizes but very easy to get lost at night as we found out! Also home of the zanzibar pizza and loads of street food on the seafront but with millions of really skanky cats.

We finished off Tanzania with eggs for breakfast this morning.  I cannot wait for a Thai Green Curry and a cheeky Chang of course!

 

Safari Guess Who!!!....

Mambo my friend,

Where you from? Uk? Karibu Moshi my brother/sister.....(Typical harassment from local touts...)

It is time for safari quiz. can you guess what we saw on safari my friend?

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It has been such a good few days if not eventful.

We decided we could not leave Africa without a safari so hope you enjoyed our best shots.

As we say it was as eventful as ever, it started with Tarangire national park where Susi spotted the first animal 'the giraffe' I have never seen someone so excited. (insert pic)

Henri our driver (sadly an arsenal fan) was fab, and showed us the best spots for animal spotting! 

Up and down we went over the Tarangire paralysed looking for those lions.  Zebra were a plenty and Susi mathematical worked out the strategic stripes......We spotted Ostrich, Zebra, Giraffe, Water Buck, Wider Beast, Elephant, Impala and more....We apparently saw some lions in the distance although we where positive they were rocks!!! After a long day we settled down to a few beers and popcorn and eggs in the restaurant!!!

Day two started with a bang! Literally! surrounded bylocal people and baboons we tried to get the engine working again. Eventually we made it 3 miles up the road before we broke the car again. 

I think it might be broken???

Oh no, It's broken again....

6 x 17 year old German beauties came to the rescue to give us a lift, much to Susi's disgruntlement we said 'YES'. Susi sat on the fridge enjoying the ride to the Ngorogoro Crater whilst I enjoyed the comfort of the front seat looking backwards over my Hareem!!! 

The crater was good but essentially a natural zoo, so not as exciting as the first day, especially considering the cramped confines of the truck we now occupied. We did get to see everything close up, hippo's, buffalo and even lions. 

Ngorogoro Crater Swamp....

Hippo bathing...

Lion Roaming 5m from the car

We got dropped off in the nearby town to collect our driver Henri and our poor truck. By this time it was late and the poor German girls where getting tired, our truck was ready for a trial run back. 'It worked' we were on our way back. well that was until it broke again. in the middle of no where. Whilst we waited for our rescue truck we joined the Masia mara for a quick game of pool. I lost, but only on a black ball fight. We got back a lot later than expected ready to go fight for a refund the next day. 

After many hours of negotiation Lee failed to get a refund so Susi stepped in as usual and adequate compromise was reached!!! Following this we had a few celebratory  drink in the reggae house and I found my home in Moshi (Moshi Hockey Club).

Lee and Moshi Sikh Hockey Club...

Look how quick I was playing hockey...

Next stop Pangani via a 6 hour local bus ride.

Here are some more pictures...

Masai Market...

Susi the ephalump...

Elephants and Giraffe's...

Vulture nest...

The accommodation...

Family of Giraffe's

The Ngorogoro Crater view...

Day of the Jackal....

Hippo's lounging a bit like Lee!!!..

Zebra crossing!!!...

View from the truck...

Strange cactussy looking tree that Susi likes!!!

And I thought shale was bad...

Poly Poly, Acuna Matata!!! (Slowly Slowly, No Problem!)

Collecting the Meat!!!

Jambo Jambo,

The climb… Day 1

Met with our crew, 7 porters, one chef, our guide Rama and assistance Cush(ty) yes for only the two of us!  A jolly old bunch working for their tip the minute we arrived.  

We decided on the machame route, also known as the whiskey route, 6 days 5 nights.  

Stopped before the gate to the National Park for the meat! and also for a push start up the hill as the bus broke down... Funny moment as the traffic jam set in! Was this the start of things to come??

Checking in at the gate involved queues and queues of other hopefuls and 2 particularly people that seemed to be staring at Lee strangely. It ended up being two of the York University Hockey players who he had coached for the last year!  Small world indeed!

A gentle walk it was through the rain forest seeing blue monkeys and white long tail furry ones that were so cute but noisey mites!  We climbed from 1800m to 3000m 'Poly Poly' was chanted by hundreds of porters and our guides meaning slowly slowly. Easy,easy or so what we thought!! Coca Cola route must have been a walk in the park in comparison!

The camp was chilly but our thermals and sleeping bags (thanks Baldwin) did the trick.  We had our own candle lit dining tent with the special for the evening being omlette, very romantic (at 3000m).

Candle Lit Romanticism...

Susi grabs a stick...

cosy...Thanks Kate A.

Day 2

Early morning start, routine ginger tea, wash bowls and eggs.  Poly Poly and this was a bit more challenging and Lee felt like a big kid over again and our first sight of the beast! 3000m to 3800m.  It wasn’t as easy as we had been told but we loved it even more so.  We do like a challenge and ‘eau d’Killmanjaro was developing.  Dinner in our dining tent, eggs, homemade chips (very good) – card entertainment commenced.

Lee with the York Uni hockey trekkers, good luck in the charity work...

No, you are not skiing...

Day 3

Early morning start, ginger tea, wash bowls and eggs.  Poly Poly and this is was the start of ‘actual’ climbing, balancing, jumping, leaping across rocks – made a black run look like a green. 3800m – 4600m – 3900m – all for acclimatisation.  

A walk in the park, my arse!

The long drop beckoned, urgently!!!

Susi's turn of many for long drop, doctors orders...

It wasn’t fun, on the way up to 4600, on the 45degree slope Lee decided altitude wasn’t all that!!! A few chunders later with no sympathy from susi we reached lava tower at 4600m. The theory was walk high sleep low! Time will tell. On the decent back down to camp Lee thought he would like to see a little more of his lunch before we finally reached camp. At camp Lee was given some suspiciously looking blue pills!!! Back to the dining tent for more eggs, blowing a gale and a bit chilly with an amazing sunset and view of the milkyway…

Have you seen the film UP, Tepui mountains are on the list...

Day 4/5

Lee eventually started speaking meaning he was on the mend so we cracked on with ‘the wall’. Quite intense vertical climbing was involved. Mountain goats could learn a lesson or two from Susi!!! 3950m – 4600m

Susi the mountain goat...

Who's mountain is this?

This was the seven hour climb before the midnight run to the summit. Up down, up, down, fried eggy bread lunch and more up, down, up, down for acclimatisation purposes (so they say!) Eventually we scrambled our way to the top just in time for more eggs and another suspiciously looking blue pill for Lee.

I think you will probably have guessed now that only one made it to the top, but who was it?

4600 - the summit.

It begun with my wake up call at 11pm, leaving a sweaty and breathless soul lying next to me. We had already made a pact that one of us would have to try.  Not even a good luck hug.  Head torch on, 2 cups of tea and more eggs and I was off with Rama. Propelled by the power of eggs, I reached the top after 6 hours and 45 mins in pitch blackness on the steepest section of the beast so far.  It was brutal, gale force winds (I will never complain about the cold again).  The sun rose about 10m from the summit and what a sight it was!  The start of the glacier was amazing and only a few steps away from where I was standing – good job that trek was in darkness.  It really was the hardest thing physically and mentally I have ever done.  The whisky route it truly was……..

Happy days, wonderful feeling, very grateful.

 It was a long time on my own up to the summit.  Thanks to my man, dad and all those transplant patients and donors for getting me to the top!!  We are all winners J even Lee with no certificate!!!

Our crew day 6, L'eau d'kilimanjaro at its peak...

Off to see the wildlife of Africa in a somewhat more luxurious environment...